Rampur Ka Rehman

We sat at The Great Kabab Factory, Raidsson Blu Hotel GRT Chennai as Khansama Rehman Mujeebur explained the nuances of Rampur cuisine's importance in the History of Indian food. ‘Let’s just see how different the food actually is,’ I thought, a little cynical as I watched his passion and knowledge of the food shows through. The conversation is a little different. Khansama needs to be in and out of his chair as he rushes to and from the kitchen. I'm reminded of a Jack in the box. Not a very small box, though: this is a tall man with quite a personality. 

For the record, Khansama in this context means traditional cook. And Rahman is a man who takes pride in his work, and shows it.

Off I went on this journey with him, Sapnil Kalkar and Chef Abhiram, enjoying the subtleties of the kababs, dals, biryanis and the stories behind them.

From left: Khansama Rehman, me, Chef Abhiram, Sapnil Kalkar @ The Great Kabab Factory, Radisson Blu GRT Chennai

‘I catered an entire Muslim vegetarian meal…’ he looks at me like a little boy who has done the right thing. 'I just did a full vegetarian Muslim dinner for a wedding.' 

‘That’s great,’ I nod, and oblige him with an admiring smile.

‘I’m actually a science graduate with an MBA,’ he tells me, as I bite into my Nawabi Paneer Pasanda. Soft yet slightly resistant, it is different from the normal Paneer Tikka. The marinade has a tad more substance, and has black dots of kalonji that crunch into little bursts of flavour in the mouth.

‘My father did not want me to join the family business. He wanted me to go to the Middle East. All our relatives and friends were going there and making lots of money. But I wanted to take this food to the world. I wanted to make it famous.’

As I chew on my slightly pungent, tawa fried Aloo Mutter Kabab, I realize how totally different it is, with whole jeera making its presence felt. Smearing some sweet date and imli chutney on it helps reduce the burning in my mouth, and it adds an extra dimension to the Kabab.

With 15 years in the business, Rehman lays a confident claim to being ‘the single person in India working on this cuisine in a professional manner.’

‘I love how royal India eats,’ the brain says as I take a bite of the Khekede Ki Kakori and enjoy the sweetness of the crab meat without having to hammer through those tough, unbreakable shells.

In between, I enjoy a few bites of Sheermal. Slightly sweet, the flat roti is a mild yellow from saffron and perfect snack to have with tea. Early in the morning.

‘This Baquarkhani is actually better. It is softer, has tiny bits of almond in it, along with the crunch of saunf,’ the brain intones. I actually agree. It also has oodles of butter. But, who’s to refuse something so appealing?

Memorable in texture, the Kumbh Aachari Masala is delicious. Black, it is mushroom perfection: juicy yet without a hint of sogginess.

A tiny bite of Dal Mumtaz must be eaten. This is not your usual dal. It is cooked in milk, is thick and still retains the slipperiness of Urad.

What takes my whole mouth by surprise is dessert. Nobody is telling me what exactly it is, but I feel like I’ve eaten this before, although I haven’t. Not in this form. Strong. Green. With an extra punch. That is the Mirchi Ka Halwa.

Adding to the whole experience is the Channa Dal Kheer. Go figure.

Two Rampuri recipes from the Khansama: 

Taar​ Korma

Mutton Currycut         1kg (Baby goat)

Pure Ghee                   250gm

Onion                          200gm Chopped

Cashew Paste              100gm

Coriander Powder       2tsp

Red Chili Powder       2tsp

Ginger Paste                1tsp

Garlic Paste                 1tsp

Garam Masala             1tsp

Clove                           5pc

Green Cardamom        10pc

Curd                            50gm

Method:
Heat ghee in a brass handi on a low flame. 

Add half the onions and brown them. Remove from the ghee. 

Add ginger garlic paste. Stir and simmer for 2-3 minute.

Add mutton, stir occasionally. 

After 3-4minutes, add remaining raw onion, cashew paste, curd, coriander powder, red chilli powder, turmeric powder, clove and green cardamom. 

Stir thoroughly 5-6 times add ½ liter water.

Reduce the flame and cover the lid for 20 minute or till the mutton is done.

Add ½ liter more water for shorba, add brown onion paste, and simmer again 20 minutes, stirring it well every 5 minutes. 

Finally add garam masala, cardamom powder, after 1-2 minute remove from the heat and serve hot with plan roti or naan.  

Mirchi Ka Halwa

Green Capsicums                  1kg                           

Pure Ghee                             200gm                               

Mawa                                    200gm

Sugar                                    150gm                                                                                           

Cashew                                 100gm

Cardamom powder               2gm

Chirongi/Sunflower seeds    50gm

Desecrated Coconut powder 50gm  

Method:
Grind capsicum. 

Put in a kadhai with 2 ltrs of water. 

Heat on medium flame for 10 minutes. Drain.

Add all the ingredients except mawa, coconut powder and cashew nuts. 

Constantly stir the mixture on a slow flame for around 20 minutes. 

Add mava, coconut powder & cashew nuts. Stir for another 10 minutes, 

Serve hot.